When he started cooking classic French food at the Berkshire village pub The Crown at Burchetts Green five years ago, Simon Bonwick says he was almost mocked for offering a style of food that was “so obvious”.
As balmy weather and spring blossom brightens up green spaces across the country, we’ve started to take note of an emerging trend. More and more restaurants seem to be opening in the middle of secluded kitchen gardens (Ethicurean, Pythouse Kitchen Garden), nurseries and garden centres (Moss & Moor, Paradise Café), even working flower farms (West End Flower Farm).
Originally conceived as a workers’ canteen for Sir Richard Rogers’ architectural practice next door, The River Café (now in its fourth decade) has gone on to achieve international stardom as a glowing tribute to Italian regional cooking. Diligent sourcing and vigorous rustic flavours are at the heart of Ruth Rogers’ kitchen, with seasonal salads, silky homemade pastas and wood-roasted specialities headlining the daily menus.
After a successful series of supper clubs and events, the chef Tunde Abifarin has announced his modern, 'pan-African' pop-up concept Farin Road will take up permanent residence at the independent Tani Modi cafe in Edinburgh next month.
A new Labour government, Oasis reforming — there’s been lots of talk about the 90s of late.
